The sun rose across the city of Dhaka and we once again awoke to face the day. Today we continued our efforts to fully understand our individual programs and compile interview questions. Our various programs are working out quite differently depending upon the meetings that we have had and the available information. But as a whole we are having success.
We are starting to settle into a routine at the office and the group seems ready to head into the field and continue our adventures. The time at the BRAC headquarters has been great but the group is a little stir crazy after a long week inside. It can be difficult sitting inside working when we look out the windows at the bustle of the city the whole time. We are all quite passionate about the project and excited about promoting BRAC but Bangladesh has so many new places to go, people to meet and unique situations to find that it can be hard to sit inside getting teased by the beautiful view and potential.
Last night in the TARC we were playing our board game Karambul with local students. Like many nights before this turned into singing, jokes and leaning Bangla fraises. One of the students was talking to me about religion and wanted to teach me some terms. He had me repeat a number of consecutive phrases before telling me what they meant and after about 30 seconds of repeating, he said that I had officially converted to Islam. So today is my first day as a part of the Muslim community. So far it has been very receptive.
Over lunch we further expanded on our linguistic abilities by learning some German for the European Cup soccer game tonight. Rob is our resident speaker and fanatic Germany fan so he lead the charge with Sam and John as his sidekicks. We realize this will probably not help us very much in the field but we all now know how to say dance pants if we ever get caught in a jam in Frankfurt. As a side note Germany lost the game and Rob is still lamenting.
We celebrated some office birthdays today and all got to indulge in one of our collectively most missed experiences from home: chocolate. This was part of meeting the new interns from various universities around the world. The students are all working on different projects but we came together for a while this afternoon to get to know one another and talk about mutual questions and curiosities.
Our group continues to work well together and we are all looking forward to getting out into the field and finding out how BRACs programs translate on the ground.
Allah hafez, and Auf wiedersehen
Friday, June 13, 2008
It's Been A Hard Day's Night, and I've Been Working Like A Dog (Adam Nathan, 06.11.08)
Yesterday was, by all accounts, not the best or brightest day we’ve had here in Dhaka. As we gathered in the area outside our rooms that morning to depart for the BRAC Centre, a strange silence permeated throughout the group. Everyone was exhausted—the night before was full of socializing with the local kids in the TARC (Training and Resource Center) and flicking little wooden pucks in this immensely popular Bangladeshi game called Grambun. We went to sleep late, and by Wednesday, the cumulative effect of hard days and long nights started to impact our attitudes.
The breakfast was full of spicy local flair: curry-flavored hash brown-like potatoes, which we wrap in chapatti (dense fried triangular dough) with fried eggs and fruit on the side. We definitely needed the sustenance, and the tea and coffee were welcome additions for our tired group.
The week had been full of executive meetings, where our group of Dukies met with the program heads of the various BRAC divisions. We were incredibly fortunate to have the opportunity to talk with many of BRAC’s most senior members, many whom are also highly respected scholars and practitioners in their respective fields. Wednesday continued to be full of such discussions. While all interesting, the conferences vary greatly: some inspiring, others considerably less so. Unfortunately, Wednesday was full of the latter.
The morning started off with a meeting with the BRAC Health Programme, which does amazing world in ensuring the physical and medical livelihood of millions of people across Bangladesh. The meeting was full of statistics and facts about BRAC’s record of achievement. By the end, our brains were bursting with information overload, though we did have a thorough understanding of BRAC’s amazing medical services for the poor.
We were then to meet with the head of BRAC’s agriculture division, who is highly regarded around the world for his work on farming, cultivation, and livestock advances. He was going to talk with us in the TARC, where we live, so we all crowded into a van and made the ten minute drive over the our place of stay. However, he was a no show—he had another meeting and was forced to cancel our appointment. So, after milling around while Rachael (our BRAC supervisor) and Shana tried to figure out what was going on, we got back into the vans and went to the BRAC Centre for another conference with BRAC environment staff.
The environment meeting was especially exciting for me, because it was the first meeting on one of my topic areas. Rob and I, who are responsible for the environment programmes as well as BRAC’s signature microfinance division, were looking forward to the meeting, but in retrospect, we should have known better.
The thing is, BRAC doesn’t have an environment programme. They have a few projects, but as we were told in the meeting again and again, BRAC’s commitment is to “alleviating poverty and helping the poor.” If some project also helps the environment in the process of achieving this goal, then BRAC thinks that’s great. But the environment, simply put, is not a priority for this organization.
The meeting turned out to be hilariously unproductive. We were interviewing two members who work on the “environment programmes” (despite the fact there is no programme) in BRAC’s research and evaluation meeting, who started off by telling us that “We are pretty low on the food chain here at BRAC, so we really don’t know what’s going on.” We knew then we were in for a good time.
We also interviewed the head of BRAC’s (for-profit) Solar Panels Project, which has built over two million such devices across the country. His deep knowledge was about the project was very helpful, until he spent twenty minutes telling us in minute detail how the solar panels work. When we asked him about the future of BRAC’s environment programme, he and the others responded, “There is no future.” Everyone tried to stifle a laugh, but the meeting was, to say the least, not very helpful in our information-gathering pursuits.
That afternoon, we met with the BRAC’s education programme. Despite having a packed room of experts, the education officials seemed to not want to answer the questions. When Heather or Anne, who are focusing on education, asked a question, the officials would start to banter. “You should answer the question.” “No, you should, you’re the director.” “No, it’s your responsibility, you have to.” And so it would go, for every query we had. Needless to say, the meeting was not everything we had hoped for.
After our meetings, all of us Duke students met to discuss the website content. We had earlier decided to structure our work into “features:” innovative, multimedia presentations of BRAC’s structure, operations, history, and impact based around cohesive themes. For example, the unique elements of BRAC are showcased in a feature called “The BRAC signature,” the personal effect of BRAC’s work is illustrated in a feature called “Impact in Action.” That process of choosing out features was fairly smooth and congenial. But the next task we had was not as easy.
We tried to make a “coordination guide,” to get everyone in the group on the same page about what exactly the features would contain, how they would be written, and in what media format they would be presented. It was tough work: after a long day, nobody really wanted to think about small details necessary to complete the guide. However, we prevailed, and at the end, everyone was very happy with the work we produced.
After a long day of meetings and an even harder group project after that, we went back to the TARC, ready to relax a bit and prepare for another day at BRAC. We knew it couldn’t get more demanding than Wednesday, though, and we made it through fine, stronger and smarter than we started. And for that, at least, we were thankful.
Then, it was time to sleep it all off.
The breakfast was full of spicy local flair: curry-flavored hash brown-like potatoes, which we wrap in chapatti (dense fried triangular dough) with fried eggs and fruit on the side. We definitely needed the sustenance, and the tea and coffee were welcome additions for our tired group.
The week had been full of executive meetings, where our group of Dukies met with the program heads of the various BRAC divisions. We were incredibly fortunate to have the opportunity to talk with many of BRAC’s most senior members, many whom are also highly respected scholars and practitioners in their respective fields. Wednesday continued to be full of such discussions. While all interesting, the conferences vary greatly: some inspiring, others considerably less so. Unfortunately, Wednesday was full of the latter.
The morning started off with a meeting with the BRAC Health Programme, which does amazing world in ensuring the physical and medical livelihood of millions of people across Bangladesh. The meeting was full of statistics and facts about BRAC’s record of achievement. By the end, our brains were bursting with information overload, though we did have a thorough understanding of BRAC’s amazing medical services for the poor.
We were then to meet with the head of BRAC’s agriculture division, who is highly regarded around the world for his work on farming, cultivation, and livestock advances. He was going to talk with us in the TARC, where we live, so we all crowded into a van and made the ten minute drive over the our place of stay. However, he was a no show—he had another meeting and was forced to cancel our appointment. So, after milling around while Rachael (our BRAC supervisor) and Shana tried to figure out what was going on, we got back into the vans and went to the BRAC Centre for another conference with BRAC environment staff.
The environment meeting was especially exciting for me, because it was the first meeting on one of my topic areas. Rob and I, who are responsible for the environment programmes as well as BRAC’s signature microfinance division, were looking forward to the meeting, but in retrospect, we should have known better.
The thing is, BRAC doesn’t have an environment programme. They have a few projects, but as we were told in the meeting again and again, BRAC’s commitment is to “alleviating poverty and helping the poor.” If some project also helps the environment in the process of achieving this goal, then BRAC thinks that’s great. But the environment, simply put, is not a priority for this organization.
The meeting turned out to be hilariously unproductive. We were interviewing two members who work on the “environment programmes” (despite the fact there is no programme) in BRAC’s research and evaluation meeting, who started off by telling us that “We are pretty low on the food chain here at BRAC, so we really don’t know what’s going on.” We knew then we were in for a good time.
We also interviewed the head of BRAC’s (for-profit) Solar Panels Project, which has built over two million such devices across the country. His deep knowledge was about the project was very helpful, until he spent twenty minutes telling us in minute detail how the solar panels work. When we asked him about the future of BRAC’s environment programme, he and the others responded, “There is no future.” Everyone tried to stifle a laugh, but the meeting was, to say the least, not very helpful in our information-gathering pursuits.
That afternoon, we met with the BRAC’s education programme. Despite having a packed room of experts, the education officials seemed to not want to answer the questions. When Heather or Anne, who are focusing on education, asked a question, the officials would start to banter. “You should answer the question.” “No, you should, you’re the director.” “No, it’s your responsibility, you have to.” And so it would go, for every query we had. Needless to say, the meeting was not everything we had hoped for.
After our meetings, all of us Duke students met to discuss the website content. We had earlier decided to structure our work into “features:” innovative, multimedia presentations of BRAC’s structure, operations, history, and impact based around cohesive themes. For example, the unique elements of BRAC are showcased in a feature called “The BRAC signature,” the personal effect of BRAC’s work is illustrated in a feature called “Impact in Action.” That process of choosing out features was fairly smooth and congenial. But the next task we had was not as easy.
We tried to make a “coordination guide,” to get everyone in the group on the same page about what exactly the features would contain, how they would be written, and in what media format they would be presented. It was tough work: after a long day, nobody really wanted to think about small details necessary to complete the guide. However, we prevailed, and at the end, everyone was very happy with the work we produced.
After a long day of meetings and an even harder group project after that, we went back to the TARC, ready to relax a bit and prepare for another day at BRAC. We knew it couldn’t get more demanding than Wednesday, though, and we made it through fine, stronger and smarter than we started. And for that, at least, we were thankful.
Then, it was time to sleep it all off.
Wednesday, June 11, 2008
Stunning and being stunned (Robert Lehman, 06.10.08)
After the clock had struck 12 on the eve of June 9, Mr. Adam Paul Nathan reached spectacular heights in our pursuit of cultural exchange with Bangladeshi locals, and started what was to be a remarkable day in a most memorable fashion. Mitu, one Bangladeshi student, asked Scott and me whether we enjoyed singing. Excited to represent America in as favorable a light as humanly possible, we answered that while we were not strong singers ourselves, Adam was one of the finest singers that our country has to offer. Adam's resistance fell upon deaf ears, as word of his supposed talent spread through the third floor of the Training and Resource Center like wildfire. Before he knew it, Adam was standing in front of an wide-eyed group of young men who were smiling with eager anticipation. Bravely, Adam took on the challenge, and stunned our ears with a dedicated - if somewhat floundering - rendition of The Star-Spangled Banner. Adam drew more kind-hearted laughter than applause, but was congratulated on his efforts by all. Mitu, it appeared, appreciated the performance the most, as he soon serenaded a somewhat bewildered Adam with a passionate interpretation of the Bangladeshi song "Tu mi amar premika", which translates into English as "You are my lover." It was going to be a great day.
After arriving at the BRAC headquarters, we started off the day with a productive and constructive discussion about our thoughts on the progress of the project. We all agreed that we could do more towards effective communication to ensure that we stay on the same page and address budding conflicts. With fifteen minutes to spare before our first meeting of the day, we talked about how lucky we felt to have been given the opportunity to work on this fantastic project and to have been granted such extensive access to BRAC's resources.
Just on cue, Dr. Faustina Pereira, the director of the Human Rights and Legal Services at BRAC and an inspiring embodiment of BRAC's vision and enthusiasm, entered the room. She impressed us all with her distinct vision for the world's largest legal aid and human rights program, which was geared not only towards supplying tangible resources to uphold basic human rights, but towards instilling a legal consciousness in rural Bangladesh. In one instance, for example, Faustina Apa (Apa is the Bangladeshi form of address) contended that rather than simply supplying clean drinking water to those in need, victimizing them without a path for progress, BRAC must empower the poor by pushing them to stand for their right to demand clean drinking water. It was an interplay between supply and demand that none of us had ever encountered.
With the executive conference room still buzzing with enthusiasm after Faustina Apa had left, Mr. Muhammad Rumee Ali (or "Rumee Bai" in the Bangladeshi form of address), BRAC's director for program enterprises, came in to leave an unforgettable impression. BRAC's program enterprises are the industries and institutions that BRAC has invested in to generate income and make the organization more sustainable. Carrying such an imposing title, Rumee Bai surprised us with his genuine excitement about our project, and his admission to being nervous in dealing with such "young, nimble minds". He granted us an uplifting insight into how every single one of BRAC's money-making programs is solely engineered to empower the poor, as he described how BRAC had created and protected markets and filled gaps in governmental services to stabilize the ladder out of poverty. His description of BRAC's positive response to having other organizations copy their model and take credit for it emphasized its dedication to poverty alleviation, not self-promotion. "Imitation is the best form of flattery" Rumee Bai said, quoting Shakespeare, and smiled. This prompted a discussion on BRAC's unique and sustainable model of Corporate Social Responsibility, a model built on BRAC's determination to weave social awareness about what is right for every local community into the fabric of all systems and processes. We left the meeting with a more profound respect for the scope and quality of BRAC, and the integrity of its workers.
Our last meeting of the day was with Rabeya Bai, the director of the "Targeting the Ultra Poor" program, reinforced our appraisal that BRAC had struck a rare balance between social responsibility and results-oriented efficiency. She spoke with bright eyes about BRAC's approach of challenging the frontiers of poverty reduction through this program. Understanding the existence of different levels of poverty and entrepreneurial potential, the program was designed to provide training and resources for the poorest Bangladeshi demographic and give them the opportunity to eventually be successful in participating in BRAC's microfinance programs. Walking out of the conference room, we discussed how deeply impressed we have been with BRAC's phenomenal success in tailoring programs to cater to the specific needs and perspectives of the poor.
As we looked out the window of the 19th floor, the sun was setting on the increasingly breathtaking city of Dhaka, the children were flying their kites in front of the lake, and the last boats were making their way across glistening waters. We set back to the Training and Resource Center with a sense of excitement about a remarkable opportunity, a sense of pride in our project, and an inspired smile. It was a great day.
After arriving at the BRAC headquarters, we started off the day with a productive and constructive discussion about our thoughts on the progress of the project. We all agreed that we could do more towards effective communication to ensure that we stay on the same page and address budding conflicts. With fifteen minutes to spare before our first meeting of the day, we talked about how lucky we felt to have been given the opportunity to work on this fantastic project and to have been granted such extensive access to BRAC's resources.
Just on cue, Dr. Faustina Pereira, the director of the Human Rights and Legal Services at BRAC and an inspiring embodiment of BRAC's vision and enthusiasm, entered the room. She impressed us all with her distinct vision for the world's largest legal aid and human rights program, which was geared not only towards supplying tangible resources to uphold basic human rights, but towards instilling a legal consciousness in rural Bangladesh. In one instance, for example, Faustina Apa (Apa is the Bangladeshi form of address) contended that rather than simply supplying clean drinking water to those in need, victimizing them without a path for progress, BRAC must empower the poor by pushing them to stand for their right to demand clean drinking water. It was an interplay between supply and demand that none of us had ever encountered.
With the executive conference room still buzzing with enthusiasm after Faustina Apa had left, Mr. Muhammad Rumee Ali (or "Rumee Bai" in the Bangladeshi form of address), BRAC's director for program enterprises, came in to leave an unforgettable impression. BRAC's program enterprises are the industries and institutions that BRAC has invested in to generate income and make the organization more sustainable. Carrying such an imposing title, Rumee Bai surprised us with his genuine excitement about our project, and his admission to being nervous in dealing with such "young, nimble minds". He granted us an uplifting insight into how every single one of BRAC's money-making programs is solely engineered to empower the poor, as he described how BRAC had created and protected markets and filled gaps in governmental services to stabilize the ladder out of poverty. His description of BRAC's positive response to having other organizations copy their model and take credit for it emphasized its dedication to poverty alleviation, not self-promotion. "Imitation is the best form of flattery" Rumee Bai said, quoting Shakespeare, and smiled. This prompted a discussion on BRAC's unique and sustainable model of Corporate Social Responsibility, a model built on BRAC's determination to weave social awareness about what is right for every local community into the fabric of all systems and processes. We left the meeting with a more profound respect for the scope and quality of BRAC, and the integrity of its workers.
Our last meeting of the day was with Rabeya Bai, the director of the "Targeting the Ultra Poor" program, reinforced our appraisal that BRAC had struck a rare balance between social responsibility and results-oriented efficiency. She spoke with bright eyes about BRAC's approach of challenging the frontiers of poverty reduction through this program. Understanding the existence of different levels of poverty and entrepreneurial potential, the program was designed to provide training and resources for the poorest Bangladeshi demographic and give them the opportunity to eventually be successful in participating in BRAC's microfinance programs. Walking out of the conference room, we discussed how deeply impressed we have been with BRAC's phenomenal success in tailoring programs to cater to the specific needs and perspectives of the poor.
As we looked out the window of the 19th floor, the sun was setting on the increasingly breathtaking city of Dhaka, the children were flying their kites in front of the lake, and the last boats were making their way across glistening waters. We set back to the Training and Resource Center with a sense of excitement about a remarkable opportunity, a sense of pride in our project, and an inspired smile. It was a great day.
Tuesday, June 10, 2008
Growing More Impressive by the Day... (06.09.08 John)
Our first full Monday in Dhaka found us once again in the BRAC Headquarters. As usual, we began our day at the 4th floor restaurant, where we were served our usual array of breads, fruits, eggs, and some other mix of lentils and spices that I’ve quickly learned to avoid. Hoping to catch as much time on the internet as possible, we quickly stuffed down the food and scurried up to the 19th floor conference room. Our efforts to surf the net were soon for not, however, when the unreliable internet service turned against us and we were stuck starring at blank screens for 30 minutes before the work day started.
Today, we were all to meet with the directors of three of BRAC’s core programs. After spending about an hour going over good questions and preparing for these interviews, we first met up with Babar Kabir, the specialist for the WASH (Water, Sanitation, & Hygiene) program, a component of the BHP (BRAC Health Program). I may be slightly biased as this will be the program that I am focusing on for the summer, but I found the discussion to be incredibly interesting and inspiring. Hearing Dr. Kabir discuss BRAC’s goal of having 100% sanitation in Bangladesh by 2011 and the ways in which they plan to reach over 38 million people to replace and build new latrines and develop safer water supplies was a great start to the day. The best part of it all, however, was when he told Michaela and me that we had free reign when it came to deciding what topics to discuss on the website. The amount of trust he had in our ability to judge which features of the program are most exciting made me want to work even harder so he would not regret his decision.
After the brief overview of the WASH Program, we all gathered and made our way back down to the 4th floor for lunch. Fearing that we would once again be served the same spicy fish (by at least my standards), my prayers had been answered when I discovered that we would be having chicken instead (this of course only lasted for a short while, as we were to be served fish, bones and all, later for dinner). During lunch, we met another intern, Julie, who has just graduated from high school and is planning on heading to UPenn next fall. We also received a short lesson in German from Rob. I believe Scott got the most out of the lesson, though, when he learned the always useful phrase “These are my dancing pants” (“Sie sind miene Tanzhosen” for those who were wondering).
After the lunchtime fun had ended, we forged onwards through the tight schedule and met with Harashit and Wahida, the two directors of the Adolescence Program. After Wahida gave a great overview of the program’s expansive and comprehensive work, things soon turned into a bilingual storm with both English and Bangla being thrown around after Harashit began answering some of our questions. Because he didn’t know much English, he would answer all of our questions in Bangla and soon even our own translators, Galiba and Khorshed, got in the act and started conversing solely in their native language, leaving the rest of us extremely puzzled. Luckily in the end, Galiba was able to slow things down and fill in the missing details for us so that we could get back on track.
At our last meeting of the day, the group met up with Zerina Kabir, the director of the Social Development Program. Along with some of her employees, she gave a wonderfully informative presentation on their goals of improving active citizenship in the Bangladeshi population and how they work closely with other BRAC programs, such as developing a public theater initiative for the Health Program, to work towards a “holistic assault” on poverty (a popular phrase used around here). It was during this discussion where I once again became completely amazed with the originality of BRAC, which as stated by Dr. Kabir, is the only organization in Bangladesh that links the community, through rural civil societies, to the government in face-to-face interactions.
After today, I have no doubt in my mind that BRAC really does think of everything when it comes to planning what is best for Bangladesh in alleviating the country’s poverty problem. With their ingenious methods of empowering the poor and encouraging them to work beyond their means, this organization truly is remarkable.
Today, we were all to meet with the directors of three of BRAC’s core programs. After spending about an hour going over good questions and preparing for these interviews, we first met up with Babar Kabir, the specialist for the WASH (Water, Sanitation, & Hygiene) program, a component of the BHP (BRAC Health Program). I may be slightly biased as this will be the program that I am focusing on for the summer, but I found the discussion to be incredibly interesting and inspiring. Hearing Dr. Kabir discuss BRAC’s goal of having 100% sanitation in Bangladesh by 2011 and the ways in which they plan to reach over 38 million people to replace and build new latrines and develop safer water supplies was a great start to the day. The best part of it all, however, was when he told Michaela and me that we had free reign when it came to deciding what topics to discuss on the website. The amount of trust he had in our ability to judge which features of the program are most exciting made me want to work even harder so he would not regret his decision.
After the brief overview of the WASH Program, we all gathered and made our way back down to the 4th floor for lunch. Fearing that we would once again be served the same spicy fish (by at least my standards), my prayers had been answered when I discovered that we would be having chicken instead (this of course only lasted for a short while, as we were to be served fish, bones and all, later for dinner). During lunch, we met another intern, Julie, who has just graduated from high school and is planning on heading to UPenn next fall. We also received a short lesson in German from Rob. I believe Scott got the most out of the lesson, though, when he learned the always useful phrase “These are my dancing pants” (“Sie sind miene Tanzhosen” for those who were wondering).
After the lunchtime fun had ended, we forged onwards through the tight schedule and met with Harashit and Wahida, the two directors of the Adolescence Program. After Wahida gave a great overview of the program’s expansive and comprehensive work, things soon turned into a bilingual storm with both English and Bangla being thrown around after Harashit began answering some of our questions. Because he didn’t know much English, he would answer all of our questions in Bangla and soon even our own translators, Galiba and Khorshed, got in the act and started conversing solely in their native language, leaving the rest of us extremely puzzled. Luckily in the end, Galiba was able to slow things down and fill in the missing details for us so that we could get back on track.
At our last meeting of the day, the group met up with Zerina Kabir, the director of the Social Development Program. Along with some of her employees, she gave a wonderfully informative presentation on their goals of improving active citizenship in the Bangladeshi population and how they work closely with other BRAC programs, such as developing a public theater initiative for the Health Program, to work towards a “holistic assault” on poverty (a popular phrase used around here). It was during this discussion where I once again became completely amazed with the originality of BRAC, which as stated by Dr. Kabir, is the only organization in Bangladesh that links the community, through rural civil societies, to the government in face-to-face interactions.
After today, I have no doubt in my mind that BRAC really does think of everything when it comes to planning what is best for Bangladesh in alleviating the country’s poverty problem. With their ingenious methods of empowering the poor and encouraging them to work beyond their means, this organization truly is remarkable.
Monday, June 9, 2008
The Impact of Passion (Anne Jiao, 06.09.08)
When you speak to someone truly passionate about their work, you really know it—their passion impassions you—their fire becomes yours. This was the effect of Imran Matin’s words to our group today. His message was one of social revolution—changes that affect mothers, daughters, fathers, and sons—a movement that moves and mobilizes generations of people. As the head of Research and Development at BRAC, Imran spoke to us about everything from the internal structure of BRAC, to the global applications of the BRAC model in countries such as
I remember sitting in many introduction economics classes at Duke and reading textbooks that always addressed the great debate in economics between utilitarianism and egalitarianism—whether it is more important to profit maximize or establish equity. From Imran’s lecture, this dichotomy is both present and relevant at BRAC. BRAC has programs in microfinance, social development, education, health, agriculture, and environment—all of which contribute to the past accomplishments and the future vision that BRAC has in reducing poverty in
What distinguishes BRAC to me, is the completely grassroots mentality of a huge workforce—the can-do mentality, the constant improvements and response to feedback and criticisms it receives. BRAC is certainly an active participant in alleviating poverty—they are the creators of a large ripple effect, and “it will constantly be about making big change and a real difference” in the world by truly waging a “holistic assault on poverty.”
A tailored shopping tour (Sam Halls 06.07.08)
We woke up early on Saturday morning to enjoy yet another meal at the BRAC center’s restaurant. I’m not entirely sure whether this has been mentioned to date but the staff at the Restaurant are indescribably courteous and nice and it is so refreshing to see them every morning. We then piled into our vans are set off for a tour around the foremost shopping areas in Dhaka.
We stopped at a conventional (by American standards) mall where Puspita took us to a DVD store selling unusually cheap DVDs. I was immensely impressed that they already had Iron Man on DVD considering its still in theatres in the States. All the films hovered around 80 taka (a little over $1 US) so everyone bought around 5. Galiba then recommended that we go to a more traditional Bangla shopping area with endless rows of stalls selling absolutely everything. We weaved through the market and one thing that really struck me was how segmented it was with jeans all clustered together, and all of the belt stalls in their own niche. This is something I also noticed when we visited the third tier of microfinance on Wednesday where all the cloth stores were next to one another. I wonder whether this is the result of legal restrictions, cultural customs or pure convenience. Anyway after touring the clothes we made our way to the local fish market. This was probably one of the most interesting stops to date. The vast majority of the fish in the market were being kept alive in small amounts of water and the catfish were absolutely terrifying. Scott was trying to get a photo of Rob standing next to the catfish and one of the men feigned throwing a live fish at Rob before catching it in a bowl and Rob jumped a good 2 feet. Adam also enjoyed being sprayed with fish blood as a man cleaned a live fish. I get the impression that Peta might be fairly cranky after reading this.
Later in the day we visited Aarong, BRAC’s profit making store. Aarong has an expansive collection of clothes, home-goods and accessories and Scott and Rob modeled the Lungi or more descriptively, the man skirt. I think all the products had added significance considering we saw the factories and the immense dexterity of the workers. We also ate a late lunch at the Aarong café and most of the group tried Tamarine juice, which is apparently fairly common in Bangladesh. After a lot of shopping we made our way back to the BRAC center for dinner and then back to the training center to conclude an amazing day.
A Day in the Lives of Celebrities [6.06.08 Heather]
The weekend comes earlier in Dhaka . Special prayers on Friday replaced the usual workday, and we were excited to finally spend a day out exploring the city.
First stop was the massive memorial forBangladesh
A short van ride later, we arrived before a beautiful brick building –Dhaka University
We then rode rickshaws to the nearby pottery market. Pots, vases, clay art, wooden art, jewelry, flowers and all sorts of other crafts were on sale along the street. Apparently at night the merchants simply pull tarps over their goods and leave for home – no locks or security needed. It’s inspiring that the people of the humblest possessions adhere to such high moral standards. When we got to the end of the street, we had amassed quite a following of kids. A toddler boy especially admired Rob, holding onto his leg with a big smile.
At the Shaeed Minar, the language martyrs’ memorial of 1952, we observed a game of cricket while Sam explained the rules to us. Then he impressed everyone as the guest bowler in the game.
Noting that it was almost time for Jumma Prayer, we headed for Khorshed’s university dorms. As Eric, Rob and Scott observed prayers inside the student mosque with Khorshed, we took a break to eat the boxed lunches we brought – the cheese sandwiches were crustless!
A quick bathroom stop at Voot quickly turned into a coffee break as we admired the restaurant’s luxurious ambiance and modern décor. The mango juice was freshly crushed fruit and tasted divine. A few brave souls ordered faludas, a local dessert that combined ice cream and what looked like noodles with other fruits and flavors.
Next stop was Ahsan Manzil, a brilliantly pink palace in Old Dhaka. Standing on the main stairways, we saw a breathtaking view of a nearby lake withDhaka as a backdrop. Inside the museum, we saw everything from old faucets used in the palace to the skull of the ruler’s favorite elephant. And it was here that we began living the celebrity life – people curiously gathered to look at us and actually followed us in crowds as we walked away! We were both very surprised and highly amused by completely unabashed stares and growing crowd. And we briefly flirted with the idea of developing a performance routine for our spectators as we waited for a few people to return from the bathroom.
TheNational Assembly Building
First stop was the massive memorial for
A short van ride later, we arrived before a beautiful brick building –
We then rode rickshaws to the nearby pottery market. Pots, vases, clay art, wooden art, jewelry, flowers and all sorts of other crafts were on sale along the street. Apparently at night the merchants simply pull tarps over their goods and leave for home – no locks or security needed. It’s inspiring that the people of the humblest possessions adhere to such high moral standards. When we got to the end of the street, we had amassed quite a following of kids. A toddler boy especially admired Rob, holding onto his leg with a big smile.
At the Shaeed Minar, the language martyrs’ memorial of 1952, we observed a game of cricket while Sam explained the rules to us. Then he impressed everyone as the guest bowler in the game.
Noting that it was almost time for Jumma Prayer, we headed for Khorshed’s university dorms. As Eric, Rob and Scott observed prayers inside the student mosque with Khorshed, we took a break to eat the boxed lunches we brought – the cheese sandwiches were crustless!
A quick bathroom stop at Voot quickly turned into a coffee break as we admired the restaurant’s luxurious ambiance and modern décor. The mango juice was freshly crushed fruit and tasted divine. A few brave souls ordered faludas, a local dessert that combined ice cream and what looked like noodles with other fruits and flavors.
Next stop was Ahsan Manzil, a brilliantly pink palace in Old Dhaka. Standing on the main stairways, we saw a breathtaking view of a nearby lake with
The
Sunday, June 8, 2008
Thumbs Up [6.05.08 Michela]
Just a typical Thursday morning in Bangladesh…We woke up at 6:30am (which is not so bad considering we all crashed around 9pm), I accidentally rinsed my mouth with tap water for the 3rd time since we’ve arrived (and thus will most likely be the first one to add Cipro to my daily regimen of pills), we piled into the van and somehow avoided hitting the criss-crossing rickshaws, 3-wheeled taxis, and jay-walking pedestrians to arrive safely at BRAC headquarters. By 7:15am, we filed into the 19th floor conference room overlooking the ever-expansive beautiful city of
Turns out, we work pretty well together. We spent most of the day discussing and presenting on the 5 main qualities we think the new BRAC website should have. After researching websites we like, we combined and cut down our favorite qualities into a list of website characteristics we think would be best for BRAC and its cause. Later, after a dinner filled with discussions of Adam’s love of United Airlines, some of our recent embarrassing moments, and how we each learned the truth about Santa Claus, a few of us had a celebrity spotting of THE Mr. Abed, the founder of BRAC.
To close the day, we had a group meeting to create our MOU (Memorandum of Understanding). More importantly, we created a Roman style system of consensus when voting for important decisions. Important decision #1 was figuring out if we should eat one or two meals outside of the BRAC office tomorrow. Thumbs down – we’d discuss again. Thumbs up – Tikase.
-Michela
Saturday, June 7, 2008
6.04.08 Experiencing BRAC
Contrary to our uncomfortably long flights the day before, we found surprisingly comfortable lodging at BRAC’s Training and Research Center (TARC) and promptly passed out from exhaustion and jetlag early that evening. But 5:15 AM still came too soon…and a hazy van ride later, we all arrived at the BRAC Centre for a scrumptious breakfast. Freshly nourished and ready for action, we eagerly boarded the vans destined for Manikganj.
Today we are visiting the BRAC Regional Office in Manikganj to understand BRAC’s expansive scope of operations, meet their Village Organization (VO) members and partake in their clients’ various assemblies. Our day was truly jam-packed with activities!
BRAC’s 1st Tier (Dabi) Microfinance Program
Our first stop during Wednesday's excursion into the field gave us an opportunity to observe BRAC's 1st tier (DABI) Microfinance Programme activities, as we sat in on a weekly Village Organization meeting. This was our first exposure to rural
With the sun beating down on us, it was a welcome relief when the group leader proudly invited us into her house (built with the profits she generated from BRAC loans). She excitedly approached us individually inside, motioning for us to sit down on her furniture, and introducing us to her sewing machine and, impressively, to her personal computer. We only spent half an hour in the village, but we left stunned and longing to see more.
- Rob
BRAC’s Health Program
In a single file line we slowly squeezed into the next compound followed by a trail of curious wide-eyed children, one of whom quickly snapped our photo with his camera phone. Quite the role reversal. We watched as the local health volunteered demonstrated and explained the importance of using soap when hand washing. Next, she chose a reluctant volunteer from the group of women, gave her an eye exam, and promptly handed her glasses for a near sighted prescription. It was so brief and to the point that we were stunned it was real. Next we were introduced to two men from the village with TB and then Puspita explained the Directly Observed Therapy program in which they would receive free meds. Lastly in our health program visit, we crammed into a one room prenatal clinic where we met a woman who was 7 months pregnant and saw the kits that the women could take with them if they wanted their pregnancy to happen at home. A little package of gauze, string, scissors, sanitary wipes, gloves and voila! – it's a do-it-yourself at home pregnancy kit!
- Michela
We visited a local BRAC elementary school and Puspita explained both the curriculum and how these schools compare to the other schools in the community and the country. The children preformed a local dance for us, which was simply amazing. All of the children also went through what they were hoping to be when they were older and most of the answers were “doctor” or “army”. Khorshid (one of student/translator/friends) explained to us that the army is one of the most respected professions in the country. One little boy said that he wanted to be a singer and was brave enough to sing a song for us.
The students also had artwork around the room, which was infinitely better than mine was when I was younger. One of the things I also noticed was the caliber of their English was very impressive.
- Sam
Human Rights and Legal Education Class
We then went to the Human Rights seminar, held in a small leafy courtyard in a remote village near Mikanjang. There were about twenty women sitting in a circle, learning about their rights as women and the legal systems in which they live. The seminar lasts for two weeks, and costs 15 Taka to establish sufficient buy-in from the women—though BRAC doesn’t need their money, they want the women to feel like they must get something out of their time. The seminar went over ten different rights schemes, from Islamic law to Bangladeshi land reforms. In the middle of the week, the top three students from each group form a Human Rights Committee, which helps women in the months and years ahead with their problems. If the Committee cannot solve an issue, it gets forwarded onto BRAC’s legal team in
Though the Human Rights seminar was not the cutest, or the most interesting, or the most exciting stop of the day, it was certainly one of the most important and impactful. Human Rights is the basis for all equality, and no matter how many technological or financial improvements BRAC can help produce, they cannot be shared by everyone if gender or race-based inequality exists. The Human Rights programme is immensely successful across
We were all so fortunate to observe part of the program in action, and many of us look forward to working with the Human Rights division in our future fieldwork.
- Adam
BRAC Community Library
A brightly painted mural announced our arrival at the community library, a cozy building sharing a grassy field with a lively school. As we passed by the classrooms, the children and teachers crowded around the doorway, curiously gazing with shy smiles. Tourists are not too common in
- Heather
Meeting with a 3rd Tier (Progoti) Microfinance Program Borrower
On our trip through Manikganj, we met a man who had qualified for the third stage of BRAC’s microfinance program, the stage that grants loans for micro-enterprises. He has taken out two loans thus far in order to purchase materials for his cloth distribution enterprise, which sells its product to people who use it to make saris. He has four employees working at his store at all times and has somewhere between 20-40 customers on a typical day. However, the bulk of his business comes during wedding seasons and before festivals, a time when cloth is in high demand. He acknowledges that his industry is very competitive, but his love for the field motivates him to run his store even amidst the competition. BRAC is the only institution that he has considered approaching for loans because of the convenience of being able to pay a fixed rate to an organization that comes to him. He has been so successful that a relative has opened up a similar shop right next door to him, giving him more competition that he welcomes.
- Eric
Aarong Handicrafts Production Centre
Back home, when I go shopping and buy clothes, I never think about where the clothes come from—just that they’re there, and they look good on me. As we walked through the Aarong Handicrafts Production Centre, the whole process of making a whole outfit that everyone here wears daily was incredible. We saw plain white sheets of cotton and silk be transformed into colorful tie-dyed cloth, stamped with complex patterns, and even embroidered with shiny beads. The beautiful dresses, robes, and scarves that come out of the Center are perfect in their beauty and variety—the look effortless in their perfection. Yet behind the scenes, the construction of these garments is hardly effortless. I saw the work that went behind each piece of work. I saw young girls carefully painting hot wax on to the cloth in the humid weather; I saw women repeatedly stamping and arranging patterns on to the cloth. There were many that washed the cloth by a pond in brilliant dyes then hung them in the wind to dry.
There were even others who spent tedious time sewing on hundreds of microscopic beads into the cloth, and yet others who gather in groups and sew the cloth together into garments by a window. Lastly, the garments go through an intense inspection—the quality control picks out the garments that would not be fit for sale—the mistakes are so little that Pushpita told us she would pay us if we could find the mistakes. These beautiful garments are a living for some—their life is spent to make these garments as beautiful and effortless as they seem.
- Anne
Sanitary Napkin Production Centre [BRAC
Naturally, being a man, I have been given the task of discussing our visit to the production center where “sanitation napkins” are made. While possibly being on the schedule to appease our fatigued minds (which by this point were nearing the level of a ten year-old’s), it was during this visit where we were once again shown the ingenuity of BRAC when it comes to improving the health conditions of the Bangladeshi people.
Upon arriving into the production center, it would appear that you were walking into some sort of operating room. Four women wearing surgical masks, wielding scalpel-like cutting tools, and shredding apart cotton are hunched over their work, making every effort to maintain the sterile environment necessary to ensure that the napkins are safe. As we moved down the open corridor, we became witness to the room that contained the sewing machines, where the cotton cloths are attached together and also where the rings were added, which allow the wearer to attach the cloth under their garments and wear the napkins comfortably. Lastly on our walk through, we were shown the room where the sanitation napkins are packaged. These packages, as we were told, will be sold cheaply all across the country so that they are affordable to even some of BRAC’s poorest members.
While this all sounded well and good, I must admit that during the tour, I did not fully understand why BRAC, a leader in microfinance, would bother producing makeshift tampons. This was until the end of the tour when our guide, Buspita, explained how these napkins are a part of BRAC’s mission to empower women. By distributing these sanitation napkins, the lives of these women are incredibly improved. After our visit, I became even more amazed by BRAC’s commitment to its people. Similarly to the eye tests and the demonstration on why people should wash their hands with soap, BRAC is making it incredibly easy for the people of
- John
Nursery [BRAC
A large part of the village organization meetings is the reciting of the 18 promises. These affirmations range from themes of health and cleanliness to protecting and proliferating social rights. Today behind the sanitary napkin factory we explored an expansion of promise number 9 that "We will grow vegetables and plant trees in and around our houses." In this case we visited a full nursery that seeded and grew plants and fruits. This was yet another enjoyed exposure to BRACs diverse, comprehensive and creative approaches to development. We enjoyed the trip. Speaking of which, we were stricken with falling while we were there. First, Rob tripped on a rock and dove headlong into a mud puddle. Thinking quickly Sam decided to mock him by going hypoglycemic and fainting into a garden pot. Shana dove for him as well and we all had a great time. Everyone is safe now and we learned a good lesson about staying hydrated and salted.
- Scott
Friday, June 6, 2008
Only the Beginning (Heather)
I finally arrived in
With 2 months of adventure ahead of us, there will surely be plenty more to read – so for now, I will summarize my first thoughts in bullet point format. (Sorry for the deviation from this blog’s usual eloquence!)
- The drivers are incredible. A bulky, 12-seat van doesn’t hinder our driver from weave through traffic with the agility of a World Cup soccer player. Completely disregarding the 3 lane street, cars honked to signal turns and passes, squeezing through within inches of each other. Although a tad frightening, I have yet to see a single collision – now that really speaks to the drivers’ mad skills.
- The BRAC headquarters was a beautiful and impressively tall building. A breathtaking view from the 19th floor showcased much of
- Just a quick note about the food – it is DELICIOUS. Everything is so flavorful! Dishes seem to be swimming in sauces with all sorts of wonderful spices! I love it already.
- And last but not least, I was really taken aback by the friendly and super outgoing people. They have a tendency to stare a bit, but many of them also speak great English and just couldn’t wait to start a conversation with you. It’s just so different from the states where people busily rush about their own affairs with the occasional “How are you?”
This is only the beginning. I still have so much more of
-Heather
A Whole New World (John Kunemund)
I’ve just settled into my room at the TARC facilities in Dhaka. I have been in Bangladesh for about ten hours, and I have already been completely blown away by this beautiful, exotic, and interesting country. While being absolutely alien to what I have known for the past nineteen years of my life, a part of me feels a bit at peace here (well, except when I’m clutching onto my seat while driving through Dhaka’s infamous traffic).
After arriving at the airport, I loaded my belongings into a van and experienced first-hand the often terrifying traffic that this city is famous for. I had heard rumors of the crazy driving rules, or more like the lack of rules, but I don’t think it hits quite home until you’re sandwiched between two overload buses about one inch away from your window, and about to be cut off by two (much smaller) tut-tuts. With no general markers to indicate lanes, a system of cutting off and passing for no reason that seemed to be revered, and a “honk once, honk often” motto, this type of driving is a far cry from what I am used to. Even though I obviously wasn’t too comfortable with this type of driving, I must admit, though, that I did appreciate the opportunity it gave me to learn about the people who live here before I had even met any.
Any reservations I felt initially about coming to Bangladesh during the van ride soon faded, however, when I was able to look out of the window and see the beautiful, lush landscape, which came somewhat unexpectedly. The only pictures I had seen before of Bangladesh came from Google images, which showed a much harsher and dirty reflection of the country. As I was pleasantly surprised to discover, it turns out that this couldn’t be further from the truth. The juxtaposition of the marshes, grasslands, hills, and ponds near the airport with the modest, extremely colorful buildings of the city (some bordering on the absolutely strange, including a hot pink and neon green office building) could not be any more breathtaking.
After the tour had ended, I was relieved to have finally found myself at BRAC’s headquarters. Not just because the frightening van ride had ended and I somehow managed to still be in one piece, but also because it represented the end of my journey from Florida to Bangladesh that had me traveling 8,000 miles over a total of 36 hours. Everything suddenly became real, and the butterflies in my stomach finally took their rest. Once inside the building, we were quickly shuffled up to the nineteenth floor conference room, where I witnessed, quite possibly, the most spectacular view of the city. I was drawn to the window like a moth to a flame, not wanting to look away until I was forcibly called to begin our first meeting. Glancing over Dhaka, the city I would be spending the next two months of my life in, I became both completely overwhelmed and incredibly satisfied. With prayer calls from the stunning mosque just to the left of the building echoing off the walls, hordes of people bustling on the street, men riding precariously on the top of rusty buses, and overcrowded boats carrying men and women across a pond to a slum the size of my neighborhood (that somehow still manages to be home for over 30,000 people), I knew I was in a whole new world.
What this new world will have in store for me, however, I’m not exactly sure yet. And I’m okay with that. I see these next two months as a chance to experience something completely different from anything I have done before, and I can not wait to see what new and exciting adventures will be awaiting me just around the corner.
-John
After arriving at the airport, I loaded my belongings into a van and experienced first-hand the often terrifying traffic that this city is famous for. I had heard rumors of the crazy driving rules, or more like the lack of rules, but I don’t think it hits quite home until you’re sandwiched between two overload buses about one inch away from your window, and about to be cut off by two (much smaller) tut-tuts. With no general markers to indicate lanes, a system of cutting off and passing for no reason that seemed to be revered, and a “honk once, honk often” motto, this type of driving is a far cry from what I am used to. Even though I obviously wasn’t too comfortable with this type of driving, I must admit, though, that I did appreciate the opportunity it gave me to learn about the people who live here before I had even met any.
Any reservations I felt initially about coming to Bangladesh during the van ride soon faded, however, when I was able to look out of the window and see the beautiful, lush landscape, which came somewhat unexpectedly. The only pictures I had seen before of Bangladesh came from Google images, which showed a much harsher and dirty reflection of the country. As I was pleasantly surprised to discover, it turns out that this couldn’t be further from the truth. The juxtaposition of the marshes, grasslands, hills, and ponds near the airport with the modest, extremely colorful buildings of the city (some bordering on the absolutely strange, including a hot pink and neon green office building) could not be any more breathtaking.
After the tour had ended, I was relieved to have finally found myself at BRAC’s headquarters. Not just because the frightening van ride had ended and I somehow managed to still be in one piece, but also because it represented the end of my journey from Florida to Bangladesh that had me traveling 8,000 miles over a total of 36 hours. Everything suddenly became real, and the butterflies in my stomach finally took their rest. Once inside the building, we were quickly shuffled up to the nineteenth floor conference room, where I witnessed, quite possibly, the most spectacular view of the city. I was drawn to the window like a moth to a flame, not wanting to look away until I was forcibly called to begin our first meeting. Glancing over Dhaka, the city I would be spending the next two months of my life in, I became both completely overwhelmed and incredibly satisfied. With prayer calls from the stunning mosque just to the left of the building echoing off the walls, hordes of people bustling on the street, men riding precariously on the top of rusty buses, and overcrowded boats carrying men and women across a pond to a slum the size of my neighborhood (that somehow still manages to be home for over 30,000 people), I knew I was in a whole new world.
What this new world will have in store for me, however, I’m not exactly sure yet. And I’m okay with that. I see these next two months as a chance to experience something completely different from anything I have done before, and I can not wait to see what new and exciting adventures will be awaiting me just around the corner.
-John
First Impressions (Eric)
The most remarkable thing about Dhaka that I noticed on the first day is how friendly everybody is. Because they are living in a city with 11 million other people, the people here could easily become tired of constantly interacting with others which could lead them to basically ignore most other people, a result common to the people in American cities. However, I find it amazing that the people do not do this—in fact, they actively seek out others to engage them in conversation.
When we first arrived at the Training and Resource Center, which is the facility in which we are staying, we were greeted by many others who are also staying here. This facility is basically like a hotel, so the people who we meet here are probably not from the city of Dhaka, but many are from Bangladesh, which still happens to be the most densely populated country in the world, so I am sure that they, too, are always interacting with other people. I met four or five people on the first night here, all of whom approached me and engaged me in conversation. It is hard for me to imagine this sort of interaction in hotels in the United States. In fact, I would probably be a little annoyed by someone randomly coming up to me in a hotel in the U.S., and I was born in raised in the state with the second-least population density in the U.S. so it’s not like I would have an excuse to say I am tired of human interaction and just need some alone time.
I think this speaks volumes to the individualistic nature of our culture relative to the culture of Bangladesh. The people here seem to have a much bigger sense of community involvement, which is something that the BRAC programs seem to highlight and take advantage of. Many of their programs involve getting groups of people together to support one another in their struggle for empowerment. As poverty is such a demoralizing state and isolation can only further suppress the feelings of hopelessness that accompany it, I think that this cultural support for one another is one of the biggest strengths for the people in Bangladesh to utilize in their effort to improve the quality of their lives, and it is this community-oriented culture that gives me faith that a better life for many is achievable.
When we first arrived at the Training and Resource Center, which is the facility in which we are staying, we were greeted by many others who are also staying here. This facility is basically like a hotel, so the people who we meet here are probably not from the city of Dhaka, but many are from Bangladesh, which still happens to be the most densely populated country in the world, so I am sure that they, too, are always interacting with other people. I met four or five people on the first night here, all of whom approached me and engaged me in conversation. It is hard for me to imagine this sort of interaction in hotels in the United States. In fact, I would probably be a little annoyed by someone randomly coming up to me in a hotel in the U.S., and I was born in raised in the state with the second-least population density in the U.S. so it’s not like I would have an excuse to say I am tired of human interaction and just need some alone time.
I think this speaks volumes to the individualistic nature of our culture relative to the culture of Bangladesh. The people here seem to have a much bigger sense of community involvement, which is something that the BRAC programs seem to highlight and take advantage of. Many of their programs involve getting groups of people together to support one another in their struggle for empowerment. As poverty is such a demoralizing state and isolation can only further suppress the feelings of hopelessness that accompany it, I think that this cultural support for one another is one of the biggest strengths for the people in Bangladesh to utilize in their effort to improve the quality of their lives, and it is this community-oriented culture that gives me faith that a better life for many is achievable.
First Impressions don't always come easy (Robert Lehman)
After arriving in Dhaka at 7 AM, I excitedly set off into the city in the hope of developing a first impression of the life and spirit of Bangladesh. Interestingly, I actually had great difficulty with this, traditionally the simplest of tasks, as I came to find the most consistent thing about my first day was that absolutely nothing was consistent.
Passing through the clouds as my plane landed gave me my first glance at the surrounding area of Dhaka, an apparently endless plane of flooded fields, without a person or building in sight - hardly what I had expected approaching the third-most densely populated city in the world. After landing at what seemed to be an isolated airport, a van took me right into the heart of Dhaka into an urban world that was irreconcilable with the view from the airplane window. Once again, firm impressions did not come easy, as I simply could not put my finger on urban Dhaka. The faded colors of shops and billboards presented an image of a place that was quietly stuck in time, while the streets bustling with cars and people passing within inches of each other made it seem as if the country was moving faster than it had space for. My sense that there was a conflict between progression and stagnation was developed by the sight of slums across the road from high-rise buildings, and by the difficulties I had in determining whether the half-established buildings that I kept on passing were being built, torn down, or simply forgotten.
Throughout my day at the BRAC headquarters, the weather would switch between clear, sunny skies and torrential rain that turned the sky black within minutes. At one point I was staring out the window, transfixed with the sheets of rain that were thumping down on the rooftops below when Galiba, one of our translators from BRAC university in Dhaka, came over to make a passing comment about the "light rain"... I'm looking forward to the "hard rain".
My long day ended after inconceivably dense traffic turned my trip from the BRAC headquarters to our accommodation (the BRAC training center), a distance that could be walked, into an hour and a half journey. With the ceaseless futile honks of frustrated drivers still echoing in my head, I'm really starting to see how much I have to learn about this country. Let the adventure begin.
Passing through the clouds as my plane landed gave me my first glance at the surrounding area of Dhaka, an apparently endless plane of flooded fields, without a person or building in sight - hardly what I had expected approaching the third-most densely populated city in the world. After landing at what seemed to be an isolated airport, a van took me right into the heart of Dhaka into an urban world that was irreconcilable with the view from the airplane window. Once again, firm impressions did not come easy, as I simply could not put my finger on urban Dhaka. The faded colors of shops and billboards presented an image of a place that was quietly stuck in time, while the streets bustling with cars and people passing within inches of each other made it seem as if the country was moving faster than it had space for. My sense that there was a conflict between progression and stagnation was developed by the sight of slums across the road from high-rise buildings, and by the difficulties I had in determining whether the half-established buildings that I kept on passing were being built, torn down, or simply forgotten.
Throughout my day at the BRAC headquarters, the weather would switch between clear, sunny skies and torrential rain that turned the sky black within minutes. At one point I was staring out the window, transfixed with the sheets of rain that were thumping down on the rooftops below when Galiba, one of our translators from BRAC university in Dhaka, came over to make a passing comment about the "light rain"... I'm looking forward to the "hard rain".
My long day ended after inconceivably dense traffic turned my trip from the BRAC headquarters to our accommodation (the BRAC training center), a distance that could be walked, into an hour and a half journey. With the ceaseless futile honks of frustrated drivers still echoing in my head, I'm really starting to see how much I have to learn about this country. Let the adventure begin.
Thursday, June 5, 2008
Packing Up (Scott Peppel)
I always like packing. It reminds me of how little I actually need and want to carry with me in life. It simplifies 20 years of accumulation into a few bags, my stories and my thoughts. I can ship off knowing that despite few things to hide behind or distract, I will get by just fine. Of course while packing any luggage to check at the airport, people say to put those things that are really crucial in your carry on luggage. And that’s when I realize how little I actually need. Granted, I still try to go prepared and I usually bring along a few unnecessary luxuries on any trip. But knowing that I can survive and be happy with only a bag and the support from those who I love is always very empowering and inviting.
If I forget something I’ll have to borrow it, or I’ll to meet someone or have a reason to adventure. Really for me if I don’t forget things and instead show up fully prepared it’s a greater loss because I don’t have reason to go fishing through a market for a rubber band, three screws and a deck of playing cards. I also don’t get to come home with oddly stained and funky smelling shirts that I am convinced are stylish. When I travel, I like to be prepared but never too prepared or it takes away the adventure and moments of “oh shit how can we solve this?” I would not make a good boy scout.
I also like packing because it makes me think about what I do leave behind. I think about my family, friends, pets and beautiful Minnesota. I’m obsessed with Minnesota. If you like Target, Best Buy, Scotch Tape and SPAM thank a Minnesotan. SPAM is something I chose not to pack so it will remain on my list of things that I miss. SPAM aside, the process of leaving things behind helps me to connect and become grounded with the people and places that I can only take along in spirit.
Packing too is a routine and a life style that I habitually enter into no matter if I’m traveling home from school, shipping off to Grandma’s or in this case going to Bangladesh. In the time leading up to travel I usually start off with denial that I need to get ready. Then comes acceptance and a slow putting together of things I need, information gathering so I fully understand what I am getting into and time with people that I want to see before I go. Then, the night before I leave, phase three hits; panic. Identifiable traits include finally stuffing all those things into bags, realizing there were 60 other things I meant to do and rapid attempts to memorize symptoms for illnesses that I might contract and probably can’t pronounce. Finally, stage four. For me stage four is somewhere between reflection and transition where I settle into the fact that I am traveling, I accept that anything that isn’t with me now isn’t coming and I mentally prepare for the adventures ahead.
One new preparation for me on this trip was dealing with permethrin prior to leaving. It is intended as a bug repellent coating that can be sprayed onto mosquito netting and clothing. On a chemical level it’s a neurotoxin. This was made readily apparent to me by the guy at REI who told me about it and the fact that bugs will not just dislike me but they will die if they are on me. So apparently will pets, family members and the general public while it’s still wet. But if it dries I can wear it. My fears of neurotoxins led to attempts at creating a home bio-hazard suit out of old clothes so that I could apply the chemical to my clothing. I am still alive and the stuff is dry.
Something else that will be new for me is monsoon season. I have read that temperatures typically reach 100 degrees Fahrenheit with strong rains. I don’t really know how to conceptualize 100 degree rainy days but I plan to put up a strong fight against the monsoons, cyclones and general floods. Luckily, Dhaka is pretty far in land.
I am excited about the program and I believe strongly in the concept of the group lending model and the potential for microfinance in development today. I look forward to seeing the struggles, successes and true impacts of microfinance in the field. I am also looking forward to the experience of documenting clients and the process of micro-lending in Bangladesh. I have long been interested in international development strategies and working with BRAC in Bangladesh gives us the chance to learn from the best in a country where microfinance got its start in the public eye. I hope that we will play a role within BRAC that can be educational and impactful for both us and the community. It is a huge organization and only being there for two months makes me question our ability to really get into workings of BRAC and understand it while also trying to make sense of cultural, linguistic, religious shifts etc.
On that note, I am curious to see how well we function without speaking Bangla and wonder if we are being a bit overambitious thinking that we can do effective documentary work in a highly foreign tongue. I know we will work hard with translators and struggle with this at times, but ultimately arrive at a good answer. What that will be I don’t yet know. Of course there will be English speakers in Bangladesh, but I wonder if I will be able to explore markets, back allies and find adventure with the confidence that I can meet strangers and talk my way out of any cultural mistakes that I commit. Perhaps that makes it a better adventure. I will also probably try to learn some Bangla but I doubt I will do very well or communicate past “my name is Scott” and “Sorry.”
One other question that I have is about the impact that the cyclone in Myanmar might have on our stay. Depending on aid going into the country and refugees coming out there is potential for it to impact our trip. I of course have more questions but they will come up in time. I’m excited about our group, I am excited to learn about and explore Bangladesh as a culture, place, history and future. I look forward to the questions, ideas and changes of thought that will occur throughout our trip. It will be a wonderful adventure.
My name is Scott Peppel, I’m 20 years old and I’m packed.
If I forget something I’ll have to borrow it, or I’ll to meet someone or have a reason to adventure. Really for me if I don’t forget things and instead show up fully prepared it’s a greater loss because I don’t have reason to go fishing through a market for a rubber band, three screws and a deck of playing cards. I also don’t get to come home with oddly stained and funky smelling shirts that I am convinced are stylish. When I travel, I like to be prepared but never too prepared or it takes away the adventure and moments of “oh shit how can we solve this?” I would not make a good boy scout.
I also like packing because it makes me think about what I do leave behind. I think about my family, friends, pets and beautiful Minnesota. I’m obsessed with Minnesota. If you like Target, Best Buy, Scotch Tape and SPAM thank a Minnesotan. SPAM is something I chose not to pack so it will remain on my list of things that I miss. SPAM aside, the process of leaving things behind helps me to connect and become grounded with the people and places that I can only take along in spirit.
Packing too is a routine and a life style that I habitually enter into no matter if I’m traveling home from school, shipping off to Grandma’s or in this case going to Bangladesh. In the time leading up to travel I usually start off with denial that I need to get ready. Then comes acceptance and a slow putting together of things I need, information gathering so I fully understand what I am getting into and time with people that I want to see before I go. Then, the night before I leave, phase three hits; panic. Identifiable traits include finally stuffing all those things into bags, realizing there were 60 other things I meant to do and rapid attempts to memorize symptoms for illnesses that I might contract and probably can’t pronounce. Finally, stage four. For me stage four is somewhere between reflection and transition where I settle into the fact that I am traveling, I accept that anything that isn’t with me now isn’t coming and I mentally prepare for the adventures ahead.
One new preparation for me on this trip was dealing with permethrin prior to leaving. It is intended as a bug repellent coating that can be sprayed onto mosquito netting and clothing. On a chemical level it’s a neurotoxin. This was made readily apparent to me by the guy at REI who told me about it and the fact that bugs will not just dislike me but they will die if they are on me. So apparently will pets, family members and the general public while it’s still wet. But if it dries I can wear it. My fears of neurotoxins led to attempts at creating a home bio-hazard suit out of old clothes so that I could apply the chemical to my clothing. I am still alive and the stuff is dry.
Something else that will be new for me is monsoon season. I have read that temperatures typically reach 100 degrees Fahrenheit with strong rains. I don’t really know how to conceptualize 100 degree rainy days but I plan to put up a strong fight against the monsoons, cyclones and general floods. Luckily, Dhaka is pretty far in land.
I am excited about the program and I believe strongly in the concept of the group lending model and the potential for microfinance in development today. I look forward to seeing the struggles, successes and true impacts of microfinance in the field. I am also looking forward to the experience of documenting clients and the process of micro-lending in Bangladesh. I have long been interested in international development strategies and working with BRAC in Bangladesh gives us the chance to learn from the best in a country where microfinance got its start in the public eye. I hope that we will play a role within BRAC that can be educational and impactful for both us and the community. It is a huge organization and only being there for two months makes me question our ability to really get into workings of BRAC and understand it while also trying to make sense of cultural, linguistic, religious shifts etc.
On that note, I am curious to see how well we function without speaking Bangla and wonder if we are being a bit overambitious thinking that we can do effective documentary work in a highly foreign tongue. I know we will work hard with translators and struggle with this at times, but ultimately arrive at a good answer. What that will be I don’t yet know. Of course there will be English speakers in Bangladesh, but I wonder if I will be able to explore markets, back allies and find adventure with the confidence that I can meet strangers and talk my way out of any cultural mistakes that I commit. Perhaps that makes it a better adventure. I will also probably try to learn some Bangla but I doubt I will do very well or communicate past “my name is Scott” and “Sorry.”
One other question that I have is about the impact that the cyclone in Myanmar might have on our stay. Depending on aid going into the country and refugees coming out there is potential for it to impact our trip. I of course have more questions but they will come up in time. I’m excited about our group, I am excited to learn about and explore Bangladesh as a culture, place, history and future. I look forward to the questions, ideas and changes of thought that will occur throughout our trip. It will be a wonderful adventure.
My name is Scott Peppel, I’m 20 years old and I’m packed.
Intense Impressions (Anne Jiao)
I’ll do my best in communicating to you all the vivid sights that I’ve seen so far in
Women are dressed in brilliant and patterned colors—fuschia, indigo, saffron, limes, and tangerine. They walked so elegantly—some with heavy baskets of rice on their heads, some gathering in familiar groups gossiping while waiting for the bus. In more rural areas, mangoes, coconuts, and jackfruits, hung ripe and heavy on trees. Through the window of a rickety ride I saw everything from large stacks of hay (from rice) to water buffalos pulling carts, from young children playing in the dirt to toothless elderly women walking hunchback in the busy streets.
When we finally arrived to our rooms, the conditions were not as bad as I had originally envisioned, although they were still far from the comforts of home. There was one real plug that we could use and no internet, we take cold showers, and there were a variety of different live species of insects in our bathroom. We do have air-conditioning and I am so unbelievably thankful for that.
The food is generally spicy—but definitely not as spicy as
In other news, I saw a bus explode, and yesterday there was a dead man lying on the side of the street—who was hit by a car. Pushipita, our translator told us that there was a tradition where if there was a hit and run, all the men around who saw the accident would chase after the car until they caught the driver. They would then proceed to pull him out of the car and beat him (sometimes to death).
There are so many sights that I’ve never seen in my life. The environment is so different from my home—they really are eye-opening and mind-opening. I know that when I return home, these experiences will make me more thankful for what I do have and affect the way that I live.
Before Bangladesh [Michela]
It’s a strange scene. I’m sitting at a coffee shop in the middle of the
Taking a look back over the past few weeks, my summer has simply been building up to June 3rd – my arrival in
Hi, my name is Michela Blain and I am 20 years old. I am a rising junior studying biology, international studies, and global health at Duke. When researching and writing about microfinance in school, I have focused on its impact on the health and education of women and their families. I am really excited to discover if microfinance is truly as amazing and effective as I have read. Does providing women with finance actually empower them? Can these small loans really have such wide ranging impacts on health, education, and children while also alleviating poverty?
I’m not sure what to expect on this trip, but in the beginning I know I will feel lost – no language, no deep understanding of the Muslim culture, and very little knowledge
“Half the fun of travel is the aesthetic of lostness.” – Ray Bradbury
Looking forward to everything,
Michela
Predeparture Musings (Anne Jiao)
I can’t believe I’m leaving today! A part of me feels a little anxious and hesitant to leave the comforts of home, but the other part of me feels completely excited and eager to see and explore all there is in another foreign country! Many of my friends are all abroad this summer. One is in
I’ve always been a huge Borders Bookstore fanatic. I always go there to study, or read magazines and graphic novels; they have just about everything from Austen to Zebras. So I was incredibly surprised when I went to the travel section and found absolutely NO books about
Which leads me to think that not much is known about
On another note, I think I packed pretty conservatively. I brought a ton of clothes…but I hope that we’ll get a chance to go to a local mall to blend in with the crowd a little more. I mostly borrowed my mom’s clothes—long dresses, light blouses, etc. I couldn’t find any mosquito netting…but I did find bugspray. The camera equipment is safely at hand, though the security people wouldn’t let me hand check the tapes and insisted that they go through x-ray machine thingie.
In the past few weeks, I’ve been testing out some of the camera equipment and I think it works fine and well. I always get a little confused with all the wires but my friend from home helped me out. We actually took the filming equipment and made a short movie about my sister and her friends’ effort (all ages 5-12) in raising money for the recent earthquake in
This is the video link:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=X5-OHJeLApo
Monday, June 2, 2008
Thinking in Dubai (Sam Halls)
My name is Samuel Halls and I am a 20-year-old economics and history double major at Duke. I was born in New Zealand and have had the privilege of being raised in New Zealand, Australia, Hong Kong, and the United States.
I am actually writing this entry while sitting in the Dubai airport waiting to board for the final stretch to Dhaka. (On a side note the Dubai airport is awesome). I think I would classify my feelings as a mix of excitement and anxiety. I am nervous about the climate and to be honest I’m nervous about how I am going to adjust to the overwhelming poverty. We’ve been discussing this trip for what seems like months and yet I am still not entirely sure what we’ll actually be doing on a daily basis. It is comforting to know that I’m not the only one who is slightly clueless and also to know that I am traveling with other Duke students. I am definitely going to miss my family, friends, and my dog but I am thoroughly convinced that these two months will be memorable experience that will play a massive role in shaping my perspective and expectations about the world and my life.
Concerning the project itself, I’m excited at the prospect of experiencing an entirely new culture and investigating the realities of an organization (BRAC) and methodology (microfinance). I have been reading Dr. Yunis’ best selling account Banker to the Poor over the last few days and he describes microfinance as this phenomenal philosophy that has tremendous ability/potential to alleviate poverty. I’m looking forward to hearing real world stories, which should show me whether his book provides an accurate portrayal. I’m also anticipating learning more about the specific mechanisms of BRAC and how they operate on a daily basis. I think more than anything I anxious to meet the people of BRAC. I think an important part of our documentary will be chronicling what motivates these people and to what extent to they see Microfinance as a legitimate answer to world poverty. Moreover, can they give examples where this theory does not work and more importantly what factors, whether they’re political, cultural etc, prevent it from being completely successful. I also want to hear how the people of Bangladesh outside of BRAC feel about the organization, micro-credit and their country in general. I can’t wait until we get into the field and experience Dhaka, the trials of the people and how BRAC is making a difference on a micro level.
Leaving on A Jet Plane (Adam Nathan)
Tomorrow at precisely 11:20am, I depart for the experience of a lifetime; hopefully, a journey that will set me on a new course, or at least change me in wonderful, fascinating ways. I can only hope for such a good outcome, but whatever these two months turn out to be, I know that I'll be more mature, more knowledgeable, and more compassionate for a cause I know or care little about as I sit here now.
So, let me introduce you to me, Adam Nathan, on June 1st, 2008. I have two amazing parents. My father works in New York, loves to garden and fix up the house, and is rather quiet but full of emotion and wisdom. My mother is equally amazing, once a finance executive but now CEO of the full-time operation that is her family. She is brilliant, loving, and almost always correct. I'd like to think I take the best qualities from both, but I share those with my little brother of four years, Jordan, a hockey goalie extraordinaire who is contemplative, funny, and constantly thinking of those around him. In short, my family rocks, and I'm so lucky to have them.
I used to want to be a doctor, until I was five and realized I hated blood. Since then, I've been obsessed with architecture, and I have reams of drawings and floor plans to prove it. Despite my love for design in every form (you should see my homework from high school), I have since dreamt bigger, wanting to affect change on a larger playing field. My passions are all over the place: I love politics, the markets, different forms of media, education, environmental causes, and especially transportation, and I'd love to do something with all of them in my life. I want to make a difference someday, and though I’d like to think “that day” could be everyday, starting now—I feel like I never stop moving, and I usually take on too much for my own good. However, I wouldn't want to live any other way.
At Duke, I've been very interested in international development, especially the values and concepts of community, unity, empowerment, and change. Thankfully, I've already had many enriching experiences where I’ve been able to study and apply these values in the classroom and around the world. As such, I'm especially excited to travel to Bangladesh to work in microfinance, with an outstanding organization like BRAC, because it encapsulates all my interests and desires into one venture.
Microfinance is a very buzzy topic right now in development work--everyone wants a piece of it. I've read, both in and out of my studies, about the positives and negatives of microfinance theory, and I'm very excited to see how it works on the ground, and how much change it actually brings about.
I'm also thrilled to be recording such findings on video, as part of a documentary project for BRAC. I've never done documentary work before, but in all the places I've visited in Africa and South America, I always struggle to not forget the intimate and touching stories of the hundreds of people I have had the privilege to meet.
In Bangladesh, not only will I be living and observing a country and a place that I've never been to before, but I'll have a way to hold those memories with me, and give them to others too. I can't wait to take part.
Speaking of the country, my excitement also stems from the location itself. I know the axiom emphasizes the journey, but in this project's case, the journey is the destination. Bangladesh is a fascinating, mysterious place: the densest country in the world, Bangladesh has quickly risen from being a place of total abject poverty in the 1970s to a rising industrial power today. With an agriculture and textile-dependent economy and an ineffective national government structure, BRAC and its third-sector counterparts can take most of the credit for the progress achieved in the past half century. In almost no other place on Earth has such an incredible feat been accomplished. I'm so thrilled to be working with BRAC, a amazing group of people that have achieved so much and are still doing even more around the world.
Of course, I have been thinking and feeling about other things besides "GETMEONAPLANENOW!!!!" As with any new experience of murky, vauge detail, I am incredibly apprehensive. I have no idea what the country will be like, what BRAC will be like, what my student counterparts will be like. I have no idea if I will be useful, or if the trip will be totally unproductive and frustrating. I have no idea if I will understand the people I'm working with, or if I will ever truly appreciate all that the destination and journey offers.
But such thoughts will hopefully only be that—ridiculous worries that never come to fruition. In fact, I'm sure that the outcome will actually be quite the opposite, and I will work my hardest to make sure that my goal becomes a reality.
In the past two years, I haven't been at home more than ten days at a time, so this past month of literally doing nothing has been quite refreshing. I didn't even accomplish the meager goals I did set for myself, but I think it was good to have some time completely free of any commitments. Now, I'm ready for change; I'm ready to change.
I've been packing for the past few days, running through dozens of post-it note checklists. Now, the product of the past days’ work is in a big backpack, and I’m ready for the real work for begin.
So tomorrow, at 11:20am, I will get on a plane, ready, willing, and able for whatever the future holds. And at the end of the trip, I'll look back at this post and smile, because only then I'll know how much my journey into a new world was really a destination unto itself.
I can't wait to find out.
Best,
Adam
So, let me introduce you to me, Adam Nathan, on June 1st, 2008. I have two amazing parents. My father works in New York, loves to garden and fix up the house, and is rather quiet but full of emotion and wisdom. My mother is equally amazing, once a finance executive but now CEO of the full-time operation that is her family. She is brilliant, loving, and almost always correct. I'd like to think I take the best qualities from both, but I share those with my little brother of four years, Jordan, a hockey goalie extraordinaire who is contemplative, funny, and constantly thinking of those around him. In short, my family rocks, and I'm so lucky to have them.
I used to want to be a doctor, until I was five and realized I hated blood. Since then, I've been obsessed with architecture, and I have reams of drawings and floor plans to prove it. Despite my love for design in every form (you should see my homework from high school), I have since dreamt bigger, wanting to affect change on a larger playing field. My passions are all over the place: I love politics, the markets, different forms of media, education, environmental causes, and especially transportation, and I'd love to do something with all of them in my life. I want to make a difference someday, and though I’d like to think “that day” could be everyday, starting now—I feel like I never stop moving, and I usually take on too much for my own good. However, I wouldn't want to live any other way.
At Duke, I've been very interested in international development, especially the values and concepts of community, unity, empowerment, and change. Thankfully, I've already had many enriching experiences where I’ve been able to study and apply these values in the classroom and around the world. As such, I'm especially excited to travel to Bangladesh to work in microfinance, with an outstanding organization like BRAC, because it encapsulates all my interests and desires into one venture.
Microfinance is a very buzzy topic right now in development work--everyone wants a piece of it. I've read, both in and out of my studies, about the positives and negatives of microfinance theory, and I'm very excited to see how it works on the ground, and how much change it actually brings about.
I'm also thrilled to be recording such findings on video, as part of a documentary project for BRAC. I've never done documentary work before, but in all the places I've visited in Africa and South America, I always struggle to not forget the intimate and touching stories of the hundreds of people I have had the privilege to meet.
In Bangladesh, not only will I be living and observing a country and a place that I've never been to before, but I'll have a way to hold those memories with me, and give them to others too. I can't wait to take part.
Speaking of the country, my excitement also stems from the location itself. I know the axiom emphasizes the journey, but in this project's case, the journey is the destination. Bangladesh is a fascinating, mysterious place: the densest country in the world, Bangladesh has quickly risen from being a place of total abject poverty in the 1970s to a rising industrial power today. With an agriculture and textile-dependent economy and an ineffective national government structure, BRAC and its third-sector counterparts can take most of the credit for the progress achieved in the past half century. In almost no other place on Earth has such an incredible feat been accomplished. I'm so thrilled to be working with BRAC, a amazing group of people that have achieved so much and are still doing even more around the world.
Of course, I have been thinking and feeling about other things besides "GETMEONAPLANENOW!!!!" As with any new experience of murky, vauge detail, I am incredibly apprehensive. I have no idea what the country will be like, what BRAC will be like, what my student counterparts will be like. I have no idea if I will be useful, or if the trip will be totally unproductive and frustrating. I have no idea if I will understand the people I'm working with, or if I will ever truly appreciate all that the destination and journey offers.
But such thoughts will hopefully only be that—ridiculous worries that never come to fruition. In fact, I'm sure that the outcome will actually be quite the opposite, and I will work my hardest to make sure that my goal becomes a reality.
In the past two years, I haven't been at home more than ten days at a time, so this past month of literally doing nothing has been quite refreshing. I didn't even accomplish the meager goals I did set for myself, but I think it was good to have some time completely free of any commitments. Now, I'm ready for change; I'm ready to change.
I've been packing for the past few days, running through dozens of post-it note checklists. Now, the product of the past days’ work is in a big backpack, and I’m ready for the real work for begin.
So tomorrow, at 11:20am, I will get on a plane, ready, willing, and able for whatever the future holds. And at the end of the trip, I'll look back at this post and smile, because only then I'll know how much my journey into a new world was really a destination unto itself.
I can't wait to find out.
Best,
Adam
Deutschland to Dhaka (Robert Lehman)
My name is Robert Lehman, I'm 19 years old, I'm half American, a quarter English, and a quarter Scottish, and I was born and raised in Frankfurt, Germany. I've just finished my first year at Duke University, where I plan to double-major in English and Political Science. I am writing this as my Dhaka-bound plane is soaring through the dark night away from Qatar, where I walked out to my plane in the middle of the night, in forty degree celcius heat... In a moment of wonder at this ceaselessly surprising world, a few hours from landing in Bangladesh, it seems an appropriate time to reflect on my expectations of the experience I am flying towards.
My initial interest in engaging in this new program partnership between Duke and BRAC was sparked by an excitement at the idea that we would learn about microfinance and the work of non-governmental organizations in Bangladesh by being placed at the headquarters of BRAC in an intensely progress-oriented environment. I couldn't think of a better way to develop an understanding of the world of microfinance than to be in constant interaction with representatives of BRAC, as well as the actual clients of this organization, and fellow students to share the experience with. I count myself unbelievably fortunate to be able to have the opportunity to learn from people working for and benefiting from BRAC to develop a genuine insight into modern approaches to poverty alleviation.
I think it is this prospect of learning about microfinance up close, from the inside out, that I am most excited about. It will be invaluable to see the economist's world of percentages and numbers, of sweeping appraisals of the effects of microfinance, but also to speak to the individuals to whom the effects of microfinance matter most - the actual clients of BRAC. In this microcosmic approach to microfinance, I am eager to learn about how the people who are affected by the efforts of microfinance think about its value, its potential, and its limitation. I think it will be fascinating to learn what concrete improvements these individuals have been able to make due to the work of BRAC, to see how other facets of life (health, safety, education for example) are influenced by micro-credit schemes.
Talking to the representatives of BRAC, I am particularly looking forward to how they feel that the concept of microfinance has to be "marketed" across the world in order to build on early successes. There is an exciting momentum about microfinance right now, and I am interested in whether BRAC sees the future face of microfinance as being one of social responsibility within non-profit organizations, or one of economic potential within the private sector, or both...
The consideration of all of these things that I want to learn leads right into my greatest concern for the trip. Interestingly, the physical obstacles that I might encounter in Bangladesh are not concerning me in the least. I have come to terms with the fact that I will probably get sick on the trip, and I'm trembling with a boyish excitement at the opportunity to be working right in the thick of monsoon season.
My greatest concern is my uncertainty about the trade-off between getting something out of this trip and giving something back. I am very conscious of the dangers of being selfish or wasteful with this experience. I want to be very careful about avoiding the trap of moral tourism, where I write off any responsibility, but give myself a nice pat on the back for having left home for two months to change the world.
On the other hand I want to be mindful of avoiding an overeager expectation that I have the answers to poverty and can change a society without really understanding it. I am very concerned about being helpful, about being a valuable asset to BRAC during this internship. When I think about what excites me most about this experience, however, I think about everything that I stand to learn, which seems like a one-sided exchange in the "getting something out - giving something back" tradeoff.
Rather than feeling guilty about this primary desire to learn, I think I need to realize that I won't be able to give back until I have got something out of the experience; I can't teach, so to speak, without learning. I think it is this mentality that will ensure that I will carry everything that I have learned from my experience with me when I return.
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